Leather Watch Strap
The History of the Leather Bracelet
The advent of the wristwatch began with a leather strap, succeeding the pocket watches that dominated the watchmaking market. The story began in 1904 at the request of aviator Santos-Dumont to his faithful friend Louis Cartier. During the First World War, soldiers quickly realized the impracticality of a pocket watch and adopted wristwatches. Back home, they kept this new and very useful timepiece, which gradually became more widespread. But it was truly thanks to Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex, and his mass-produced waterproof Oyster that leather straps made their grand entrance.
Tanneries & leatherworks
The Leather Skins
The quality of a leather strap is undeniably linked to the leathers and their work by the workshop where the tanning is carried out. Cleaned then treated vegetable as well as chemically, then mechanically, the raw leather hides are transformed into tanned leather to then be worked and cut. The most common in watchmaking is calfskin, fine and of very good quality, even if all skins are used, including those of fish. Also note that leather straps that have undergone a vegetable tanning process will be environmentally friendly and hypoallergenic to avoid any irritation.
Dimensions to know
The Bracelet Cup
When it comes to the cut of the leather strap, it's a matter of taste, but not only that. Straight or fitted cuts allow you to adapt to the type of watch or the desired stylistic spirit. They are generally complemented by a boat tip, straight or rounded. Also note the shape of the leather, flat or curved to add character to the strap. As for the dimensions, the vast majority of lug widths, or the space between where the spring bars are attached, vary between 17 and 22mm, even if most straps are 20mm wide. This is a standard in watchmaking that will give you access to more choices.
Upper leather, lining & stitching
The Finishes
Each strap is made of a top leather, padding on the outer side, and then a lining in direct contact with the skin. The whole thing is edged or topstitched to secure the three parts. Depending on the choice of skin used, the top leather is either smooth or grained, but can also be naturally textured like alligator. Smooth leathers can also undergo a hot stamping technique called embossing to create a textured appearance such as alligator or Saffiano, or even a creative pattern. Other techniques such as engraving or scarification are also practiced but are rarer.
Fixing & Typologies
Spring Clips
This is where the leather strap can be attached to the lug of the watch, thanks to the presence of holes for spring bars. These metal rods securely attach the watch to your wrist and their quality is important to avoid losing your precious watches. They are also used to attach the buckle to the end of the short strand of your strap. In recent years, the majority of watchmakers have switched to so-called "flash" or "presto" spring bars because they allow you to attach a strap quickly and without tools. Afterwards, the operation is also very easy with a strap removal tool.
Pin or Folding Buckle
The Clasp
What might seem like a minor detail can add incredible charm to a watch. On a leather strap, the clasp plays an important but often overlooked role. We like to use the original buckles, hence the importance of the strap's cut. The shape of the pin buckle, the metal tip that penetrates the perforations in the leather, also plays a role in the choice of a strap, due to its shape or width. Indeed, not all are compatible. Practical and sophisticated, the folding clasp also adapts easily to leather straps: so don't hesitate to add one!
